Raise a Glass to Three Pioneering Women Winemakers During Women’s History Month

In celebration of Women’s History Month, we’re highlighting three women who have made their mark in California wine. MaryAnn Graf, Zelma Long, and Merry Edwards are all trailblazing winemakers who paved the way for other women to enter the historically male-dominated industry. 

All three attended UC Davis, and the library holds various manuscripts, personal papers, and collections through which students and other scholars can learn about their impact.

MaryAnn Graf (1942-2019)

Often considered the first modern-day woman winemaker in California, MaryAnn Graf was passionate about science. She found her life’s work in winemaking while attending UC Davis where, in 1965, she became the first woman to receive a B.S. in Fermentation Sciences (Enology). 

Graf was drawn to the hands-on work of winemaking. After graduation, she found work as a chemist and assistant winemaker at Gibson Wine Co. in the Central Valley. In 1973, she eventually became the Head Winemaker of Simi Winery in Sonoma County, where she stayed until 1979. When a New York wine company, Schieffelin, bought out Simi Winery and asked Graf to serve in a more administrative role, she stayed true to her passion for science and left Simi to open her independent wine analysis lab – “Vinquiry.” 

At Vinquiry, Graf helped other wineries improve their products using scientific analysis. The lab was highly successful and expanded to three additional satellite laboratories. Graf stayed with her company until her retirement in 2003. Graf was also the first woman on the Board of Directors of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture, and the barriers she broke influenced other women winemakers to follow in her footsteps – including Zelma Long.

Zelma Long 

Succeeding MaryAnn Graf at Simi Winery, Zelma Long is another trailblazer in the wine industry. Enrolling at UC Davis in 1968 to pursue a Master’s in Food Science with a concentration in Enology, she was the only woman in her cohort. She was recruited to work under Mike Grgich at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1970 and worked her way up to Chief Enologist during her time with the winery. It wasn’t until 1979 that she moved to Simi Winery to take over as Head Winemaker, and eventually CEO, for 20 years.

Long is considered to be one of the first women to run both the winemaking and business sides of a California winery. In 2010, Long was inducted into the Culinary Institute of America’s Vintners Hall of Fame – becoming only the second woman ever to achieve this recognition.

In an oral history, Long describes her love for winemaking from the moment she started:

“I was immediately fascinated. I was hooked.”

— Zelma Long

UC Davis Professor Emerita Ann Noble describes both MaryAnn Graf and Zelma Long as “pioneer women.” The two made their mark on the burgeoning industry and were recognized by their peers for their talents in an industry with few women in it. Following her time at Simi Winery, Long earned her Ph.D. in Performance Studies from UC Davis and now works as a consulting winemaker. 

Merry Edwards

Merry Edwards earned her Master’s in Food Science with an emphasis in Enology from UC Davis in 1973. Out of the three women in her class, Edwards was the only one to become a winemaker after graduation. 

Though nearly a decade had passed since Graf had received her degree, the field remained male-dominated, and it was initially difficult for Edwards to find a job as a winemaker. While she was offered roles in winery labs, where women were often relegated in those days, she persevered and was eventually hired as a winemaker at the Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1974. This was where Edwards first worked with Pinot Noir, the varietal that would become her signature years later. 

In 2006, Edwards and her husband started the Merry Edwards Winery. The winery is now world-renowned for its Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs. 

A firm believer in quality and education, Edwards’ career is marked by her steadfast dedication to winemaking. She became the fourth woman inducted into the Culinary Institute of America’s Vintners Hall of Fame in 2013 and won the prestigious James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional that same year. 

Edwards stepped down as Head Winemaker of the winery that bears her name in 2018, but stayed on as chief executive until the business was sold in 2019.

Explore their professional papers

The professional papers of Graf, Long and Edwards are part of the library’s Archives and Special Collections. UC Davis students and researchers from around the world can learn more about their leadership and legacy to California’s wine industry. To request access to the collections, contact speccoll@ucdavis.edu.